up close with Franz Josef

We arrived in Franz Josef after a relatively easy drive down the west coast. We were advised to stop off at the Bushman Centre for lunch. We found easily enough, as there was a massive sandfly hanging off the front of the building, but only stopped for a coffee. It was one of the crazy looking places both from the outside and the inside. A mixture of shop for clothes and souvenirs, a cafe and for good measure, a museum. The menu was the most entertaining as I had been told about the 'roadkill, possum burgers' not the mention the bambi burgers, bunny burgers and numerous other roadkill options. The chairs were all covered in possum pelts for authentic atmosphere.
We drove off as a group of bikers had arrived and occupied the museum to learn about the local natureal environment.
We drove into Franz Josef Glacier and found our accommodation. The room was onc again well equipped with cooking facilities and fridge, so a couple of beers fitted in the door nicely. We decided that we had time to drive to the Glacier and walk up to the face of it.
Once parked it took us just under an hour to walk to the face. Other explorer types were walking up the steep hill with guides to walk on the ice, but we were doing the helicopter ride the following day, so didn't have a desperate need to challenge oursleves right then.
We went back to the motor lodge and found something to eat and watched TV, after walking round the streets for half an hour.
It was a relatively small place occupied by mainly young backpacker types, walking in and out of the few bars that occupied the main street.
It was time to close down and prepare oursleves for the flight the following day.

full days activities in Punikaiki!

We woke to look out on a grey, low cloud looking day, but given assurances that the cloud would soon burn off by around 10 or maybe 11.
It was a leisurely start as we were served breakfast by the host Roli. The other guests had packed and departed and left us to organise our day. We decided to walk along a nearby beach, then time our visit to the pancake rocks and ‘blow holes’ at around 3.30pm where at high tide, the crashing waves would be projected skyward through the gaps (or holes) created by erosion. Between the beach walk and getting to the pancake rocks we walked for about an hour along a made up track that ran alongside the nearby river.
Unfortunately we did not see the blow holes perform as the swell was not adequately rough.
We went back to the accommodation for a brief rest, then went out to walk along the Truman Trail, which led to the Beach just below the accommodation. The eroded rock formations were captivating and we stood in wonder to think how any of them remained in place.
We sat with the host family and planned the following day, as although we were checking out, I had been invited to watch the All Blacks playing against Wales at the local pub at 6am in the morning.

The dawn of the following day came at around 5.30am and I was up ready to get to the pub, with Roli and Eva plus one other French girl who had, with her partner, tempted Caroline and I down to the beach to see if we could see Penguins coming onto the beach in the darkness. We didn’t see any though.

The pub was open and coffee was on offer on the bar as we took our seats, as the build up interviews were being shown on the big screen. Because of the Pike River disaster, there was a minutes silence which was respectfully observed in the pub. I really felt at the centre with people that knew people who had experienced the effect of the disaster.

The match started and a growing number of locals (some of whom were south Wales exports) started coming into the pub and getting involved as the game unfolded.

The game was a hard fought challenge and for 60 minutes or so, the Welsh gave their best and the lead was always possible. The final score reflected the ability of the All Blacks to change the tempo of the game and with 2 tries in succession they were out of sight. But that’s enough of the match report. The atmosphere in the pub was good spirited, applauding all points scoring by both sides.

We returned back to have breakfast and enjoy the final few hours before heading south for Franz Josef Glacier.

first stop on the west coast

The journey down the west coast to Punakaiki was once again a delightful and relatively easy trip. We followed the GPS instructions even though there were times when it started to get lost and guiding us across open fields. There were a few scary moments as we crossed narrow 'one lane' bridges and passes that had poor visability. But we followed the rules of the road and beckoned the odd lorry through when it needed guidance.
We arrived at our next port of call. The Rocks, Homestay.
Well this was another experience entirely and in a different league as far as paradise was concerned. The place appeared to be suspended over a small section of rain forest and the hosts Rolie and Eva made the welcome all the more special as we were introduced to the living space and the options of what activities were available and where to eat.
There were 2 other rooms which were also taken as the 'no vacancy' sign confirmed when talking with Rolie.
we rested a while then considered where to eat. We had been recommended to the local tavern where all the locals seemed to congregate as well as other travellers were also eating. We arrived there just in time and ordered food. I opted for the rib-eye steak whilst Caroline went for the pasta with tomato sauce.
It was served to us by Ian the owner of the place and as Caroline identified herself as having the 'veggie' option, he responded with the best line of the day, "you can see a Doctor about that".
I nearly choked on my mouthful of draught Tui.
the food went down a treat, although during the process we had witnessed the locals all turn to the TV (the volume was turned up and the music stopped) as an interview with the Chief Executive of the Pike River Mine brought home the proximity we were to the recent disaster and how it was effecting everyone.
I had a second pint, this time Monteith's Black Beer whilst Caroline then watched a change of mood on the TV... Gordon Ramsey's Nightmare kitchens!! imported US version.
we returned to the Rocks and had a quick walk on the beach at the end of Truman track.
Then back for a get together with the other people staying and discussed and compared our adventures around New Zealand so far.

South Island experience starts here

Its starting to turn into a different trip now that we've crossed over to the south island and start to observe a completely different landscape and meet different people.
We had eaten on the boat... well, fish and chips.. and therefore didn;t bother going out for another meal once we had settled into the accommodation. After all it was gone 8pm now, and we had a long day. This morning we woke to bright blue sky and sunshine just coming onto the balcony, so we enjoyed a breakfast 'al fresco' and read for nwhile before setting off. The Equestrian Motor Lodge had delivered and was interesting to have met the couple who were from Northampton who moved over about 8 years ago, we made tracks to see what the next stop over would have install for us.

Wellington to Picton by Ferry

Its was time to cross the great abyss between north and south island. Commonly known as the Cooks Straight. But we had a morning to waste in Wellington, so we packed up, checked out of the Capital Gateway Motel and park up for a couple of hours before catching the 2pm ferry across to Picton.
We decided to visit the Te Papa Museum in the centre of the city. We learnt a great deal more about the NZ culture in one of the exhibition areas. Hadn't realised that the maori language had only been formally recognised since 1989.
The Ferry awaited and we after stocking up with a few items of food, we drove to the waiting lanes to watch the ferry come into the terminal and off-load the south island cargo.
The sun was shining and the ferry left only a few minutes late. The crossing was smooth despite previous anxieties about the weather conditions. The crossing was a little over 3 hours but soon passed by. We docked into Picton and within 10 minutes we were driving out of Picton and heading for our overnight stop in Motekua.

getting into Wellington

It was the final full day to spend on the north island, and it was time to set the Sat Nav to find Wellington. It was once again a trip that would take us through changing terrain and towns. Masterton, Carterton and Greytown were all well organised and fresh looking places, where attention had been paid to a community looking spirit.
We were heading on South highway 2 and making good headway, so we had time for a stop off for a picnic lunch. It was a commemorative garden area in tribute to world war 2 war heroes.
On the road again, we noticed the growing number of lanes as we arrived into Hutt city. Both Upper and Lower Hutt came into view on our left and we travelled across to find our way into the Capital Gateway Motel. A sternly looking receptionist went through the minimal formalities and we went to our allocated room 106 and unloaded the car.
We considered options after a short rest and decided to drive into the centre of Wellington and check out the attractions and whether there was anywhere to eat.
Parked up, we headed to the waterfront area and then across several streets into Cuba street, the food street. There was a veggie/vegan place mainly based on Malaysian style, so we tracked around for a half hour then went in and ate. It was hot, but it was well tasty and good.

Napier Delivers in art deco style

It was a long drive from Stratford. 300km and a couple of stops meant we arrived just after 3.30pm to be directed to room 5 of 12 in a courtyard of car spaces (1 for each room). Each room named, ours being the CHB Press Suite (CHB = Central Hawkes Bay).
Again well furnished but slightly falling short of the previous accommodation but that was a tough act to follow.
We had plans for visiting Napier (about an hours drive) to see the capital of Art Deco for New Zealand, so after sorting ourselves out with food, we settled down to watch TV… (actually seeing New Zealand being well and truly beaten in the third day of the third test cricket).
We made our own breakfast and loaded the car and set off. The sun wqas shining with no sign of clouds, so it was time for shorts again.
We arrived in a central car park and ventured around the city and were absorbed with building after building that demonstrated the real ‘art deco’ themed design that has been so recognisable icons in the last century.
The camera was snapping skywards as the skyline attracted my attention every few steps. The sky-blue backdrop was ideal for the different colour schemes that paraded before me.
Whilst walking around part of the shopping precinct we heard, then observed, the results of an elderly ladies attempt to ram-raid a fashionable dress shop. We assumed she engaged reverse in her automatic instead of drive, and the result of her mistake had caused and one of the pillars was demolished.
Fire engines arrived to add drama to the event. We didn’t stop to observe, but turned a few corners and ended up talking to a resident of Palmeston North about life in New Zealand. His father was in Napier in the early 30’s repairing the buildings around us. His wife joined our conversation briefly and headed off to the next fashionable dress shop! and we bid our farewells.

We were due back to the car park (2 hours limit) and re-parked the car on the sea-front and had a picnic. Then we drove off to Hastings, about 12km inland, for more exposure to art deco buildings.

We drove back to our motor lodge and did the laundry, shopped and after a short rest had tea. Other residents at the motor-lodge started to congregate outside our door. There was a BBQ which was being fired up by the owner and there were some fisherman arriving, as well as a couple of others who were sat at the table, who after the meat had been cooked devouring their meal in the rain. I went outside to observe and admire their determination to eat in the rain (under a large parasol).
One guy turned out to have just returned from living near Sevenoaks in Kent for the last 10 years, working in the meat trade, alongside his colleague Jean Michael (from France) who were wheeling and dealing as we spoke. There was a container full of meat in north france waiting for transportation. But they took time out to share their experiences on NZ culture and history, sport and other related topical issues as well as their bread and special sheep cheese! Meanwhile I was being fed with some venison burgers that the owner had been hunting for. We stood and chatted as the rain ceased for around an hour. The India cricket team had beaten New Zealand in the meantime, but we didn’t make an issue of this. It was time to clear up and head back to our respective rooms.

Napier Delivers in art deco style

It was a long drive from Stratford. 300km and a couple of stops meant we arrived just after 3.30pm to be directed to room 5 of 12 in a courtyard of car spaces (1 for each room). Each room named, ours being the CHB Press Suite (CHB = Central Hawkes Bay).
Again well furnished but slightly falling short of the previous accommodation but that was a tough act to follow.
We had plans for visiting Napier (about an hours drive) to see the capital of Art Deco for New Zealand, so after sorting ourselves out with food, we settled down to watch TV… (actually seeing New Zealand being well and truly beaten in the third day of the third test cricket).
We made our own breakfast and loaded the car and set off. The sun wqas shining with no sign of clouds, so it was time for shorts again.
We arrived in a central car park and ventured around the city and were absorbed with building after building that demonstrated the real ‘art deco’ themed design that has been so recognisable icons in the last century.
The camera was snapping skywards as the skyline attracted my attention every few steps. The sky-blue backdrop was ideal for the different colour schemes that paraded before me.
Whilst walking around part of the shopping precinct we heard, then observed, the results of an elderly ladies attempt to ram-raid a fashionable dress shop. We assumed she engaged reverse in her automatic instead of drive, and the result of her mistake had caused and one of the pillars was demolished.
Fire engines arrived to add drama to the event. We didn’t stop to observe, but turned a few corners and ended up talking to a resident of Palmeston North about life in New Zealand. His father was in Napier in the early 30’s repairing the buildings around us. His wife joined our conversation briefly and headed off to the next fashionable dress shop! and we bid our farewells.

We were due back to the car park (2 hours limit) and re-parked the car on the sea-front and had a picnic. Then we drove off to Hastings, about 12km inland, for more exposure to art deco buildings.

We drove back to our motor lodge and did the laundry, shopped and after a short rest had tea. Other residents at the motor-lodge started to congregate outside our door. There was a BBQ which was being fired up by the owner and there were some fisherman arriving, as well as a couple of others who were sat at the table, who after the meat had been cooked devouring their meal in the rain. I went outside to observe and admire their determination to eat in the rain (under a large parasol).
One guy turned out to have just returned from living near Sevenoaks in Kent for the last 10 years, working in the meat trade, alongside his colleague Jean Michael (from France) who were wheeling and dealing as we spoke. There was a container full of meat in north france waiting for transportation. But they took time out to share their experiences on NZ culture and history, sport and other related topical issues as well as their bread and special sheep cheese! Meanwhile I was being fed with some venison burgers that the owner had been hunting for. We stood and chatted as the rain ceased for around an hour. The India cricket team had beaten New Zealand in the meantime, but we didn’t make an issue of this. It was time to clear up and head back to our respective rooms.

moved on to Waipukurau

we set off this morning for a 300km drive from Stratford to Waipukurau and saw our first flock of hillside wind turbines. Putting good use of the recent strong winds which was good to see. Stopped off at a cafe (Sassy cafe) which doubled up as a post office... 'a novel and unique combination' I commented to the girl behind the counter as she calculated what stamps we needed to send a postcard home.
'gets a bit annoying at times though' she responded.
Didn't seem like the most perfect of combinations then.
We're now sitting in a our new digs for 2 nights and driving into Napier tomorrow.

touring the 'Surf Highway'

As mentioned earlier, we woke to see only some brief glimpses at the nearby mountain from our balcony. Several options were considered, but thought we would head across eastwards and navigate ourselves around the mountain. The road running along the coast is known as the Surf Highway, and several roads led from it towards the coast, where the sea was looking particularly rough.
We went through several showers, but stopped around 12.30 and had a picnic. Chatted to a couple walking their dog. picked up that their accents weren't local NZers, and discovered that they had moved over here 6 years ago from Yorkshire, originaly from Leeds.
We made our way back through New Plymouth and then towards Stratford to return to our room.
Then we were out again to see the clock in the centre of stratford which, on the chimes of 3pm performed a short piece from Romeo & Juliet. It appears that this place was named after the Bard and the glockenspeil chimes are shortly followed by life-size models appearing at various windows of the clock tower....
It was time for more mountain spotting and found a nearby road that led to the mountain plateau 6km away and 3 pops in our ears high! (its the official way we measure altitude). we arrived to find one other vehicle in a large car park but the top of the mountain came into view. The first time we'd seen it all day, as it had remained wrapped in clouds all the time during our drive.
we walked to a look-out platform, then back to the car as we saw the summit disappear again.
At least we can say we saw the summit!!