furthest south

So there we were.... having breakfast considering the next part of the trip which would take us to Te Anau. On the shores of the Lake of the same name, Te Anau. It was only a 90 min journey and therefore made a relaxed departure from Kingston.
We arrived after stopping at Mossburn (capital of deer country) and got into Kingsgate Hotel on the shores of the Lake before the hotel room service had prepared our room. We were given some guide notes as to where and have a picnic and do some sight seeing before getting back to the hotel.
Earlier in the day I had booked places with the local company to see the Glo Worm caves, which involved a boat trip across the lake and walk deep into a cave and observe the illuminated phenomenon. So, we had a pizza, went to the cinema which showed an amazing 30min film of the fiordland and headed to thw wharf for the 8.15 trip to see the glo worms. The climax of the trip was sitting in a 12 seater boat in total silence and in total darkness being disorientated for around 15mins. This was to be the most underwhelming experience of the trip. The undrground rock formation and the rush of water through the caves were amazing, but were disppapointed at the few dozen glo worms that sprinkled the roof of the cave didn't live up to either of our expectations.
So... the day was finished as we rode back on the boat in the darkness and prepared ourselves for a better trip to Milford Sound the following day.

a quiet day in Kingston

The following day started with breakfast served up by the hosts and conversation continued to freely between the four of us around the table as we watched Queenstown come into view northwards, at the end of the lake, and the sun breaking out on the mountainside.
Nothing was planned for the day, which was just how we wanted it. The offer of using the kayak for Caroline was made, and taken up during the morning. So Caroline prepared, took to the water and made a gentle departure across the bay. The breeze caused the return easier, but she stayed out on the water for around 40 minutes. (see video clip)
In total contrast, my afternoon was being planned. A game of bowls was being scheduled against a neighbour, on the towns bowling green.
The Kiwi vs UK challenge took place just after 2pm and I took to the green with borrowed bowls. The green was unique… a good dose of clover peppered with small mushroom balls on the lane we chose. My opponent let me go first. It was the only time as we agreed on completing 10 ends. It was the only time I went first as the Kiwi took home advantage and won every end thereafter.
A handshake and promise of never speaking of this defeat was the best I could do. I will return to re-turf the green some day!
I returned and we spent the afternoon soaking up the relaxed atmosphere.
The pace of today was just perfect. Later in the afternoon we explored the town, looking at the vacant / for sale properties as well as paying respects to the Kingston Flyer, that was sitting, caged, dormant, waiting for investment. The coaches and other rolling stock were scattered around the main station, otherwise known as the ‘tavern’ where we’d eaten the previous night, and planned to eat again tonight.
Peter and Margaret were waiting when we returned to engage in more interesting local information, whilst having drinks and canopies.
They phoned the tavern to check that Sona was cooking again, and we made tracks to sit and enjoy the local delicacy ‘bluecod’.

Franz Josef to the Kingston Flyer

Woke up ready for the longest days drive of our whole trip. A little less than 400km and over 5 hours duration. A little more along the coast line of the West coast, then coming inland first running alonside Lake Wanaka then cutting across to Lake Hawea for some more stunning scenery along the Haast Pass.
A little further south we were in Wanaka town and then followed the route across the Crown Range Road where there was a steady climb to 1076m to look out towards Queenstown airport.

We descended into Queenstown and only had another half hour drive into Kingston where there were signs for 'the home of the Kingston Flyer'.
We found the accommodation, 'Tranquility Lodge' and were greeted by the owners Peter and Margaret. Upon entering the main living area, we could see why it was given the name. The views were stunning, looking out over the lake and realising that we had found another little piece of New Zealand paradise. Our room overlooking the same view, we sat and chatted with our hosts and exchanged stories and experiences.
The sun still shone on the mountain tops, and on the advice of Peter and Margaret, we decided that the local Tavern would be a good place to feed and water ourselves. We weren't disappointed as the hospitality and efficiency of Sonya who was serving, waiting and cooking was incredible.
How was the final week going to get better?

Clear for take off!

It was one of the highlights of the trip.... a helicopter ride over the Glaciers (Franz Josef and Fox).
We reported to the office and were told that we were the only 2 on thr trip, but that we could go to the sister company down the road where they had space for 2 more to make up a full trip.
We went a couple hundred metres down the road and paid our fee for the ride. Shortly afterwards, there was a phone call from the Fox office(we were in the Franz office) to say that the others on our booked flight had gone to the wrong office. So we had an additional 10 minute ride as we went across by helicopter to Fox before heading upwards to the top of the Glaciers. It was an amazing sight as the pilot picked his way around the rocky crags and found a spot to land and allow us 5 minutes walk-about on the mountain peak overlooking Fox Glacier.
An experience that only happens very occassionally for us both, but one which will remain for a while to come without doubt.
We returned via Fox again, then the short 5 minute trip across to Franz.
We went back to our room and had a small lunch before going out for a walk up a trail which looked out on some jaw-dropping landscapes in all directions.

up close with Franz Josef

We arrived in Franz Josef after a relatively easy drive down the west coast. We were advised to stop off at the Bushman Centre for lunch. We found easily enough, as there was a massive sandfly hanging off the front of the building, but only stopped for a coffee. It was one of the crazy looking places both from the outside and the inside. A mixture of shop for clothes and souvenirs, a cafe and for good measure, a museum. The menu was the most entertaining as I had been told about the 'roadkill, possum burgers' not the mention the bambi burgers, bunny burgers and numerous other roadkill options. The chairs were all covered in possum pelts for authentic atmosphere.
We drove off as a group of bikers had arrived and occupied the museum to learn about the local natureal environment.
We drove into Franz Josef Glacier and found our accommodation. The room was onc again well equipped with cooking facilities and fridge, so a couple of beers fitted in the door nicely. We decided that we had time to drive to the Glacier and walk up to the face of it.
Once parked it took us just under an hour to walk to the face. Other explorer types were walking up the steep hill with guides to walk on the ice, but we were doing the helicopter ride the following day, so didn't have a desperate need to challenge oursleves right then.
We went back to the motor lodge and found something to eat and watched TV, after walking round the streets for half an hour.
It was a relatively small place occupied by mainly young backpacker types, walking in and out of the few bars that occupied the main street.
It was time to close down and prepare oursleves for the flight the following day.

full days activities in Punikaiki!

We woke to look out on a grey, low cloud looking day, but given assurances that the cloud would soon burn off by around 10 or maybe 11.
It was a leisurely start as we were served breakfast by the host Roli. The other guests had packed and departed and left us to organise our day. We decided to walk along a nearby beach, then time our visit to the pancake rocks and ‘blow holes’ at around 3.30pm where at high tide, the crashing waves would be projected skyward through the gaps (or holes) created by erosion. Between the beach walk and getting to the pancake rocks we walked for about an hour along a made up track that ran alongside the nearby river.
Unfortunately we did not see the blow holes perform as the swell was not adequately rough.
We went back to the accommodation for a brief rest, then went out to walk along the Truman Trail, which led to the Beach just below the accommodation. The eroded rock formations were captivating and we stood in wonder to think how any of them remained in place.
We sat with the host family and planned the following day, as although we were checking out, I had been invited to watch the All Blacks playing against Wales at the local pub at 6am in the morning.

The dawn of the following day came at around 5.30am and I was up ready to get to the pub, with Roli and Eva plus one other French girl who had, with her partner, tempted Caroline and I down to the beach to see if we could see Penguins coming onto the beach in the darkness. We didn’t see any though.

The pub was open and coffee was on offer on the bar as we took our seats, as the build up interviews were being shown on the big screen. Because of the Pike River disaster, there was a minutes silence which was respectfully observed in the pub. I really felt at the centre with people that knew people who had experienced the effect of the disaster.

The match started and a growing number of locals (some of whom were south Wales exports) started coming into the pub and getting involved as the game unfolded.

The game was a hard fought challenge and for 60 minutes or so, the Welsh gave their best and the lead was always possible. The final score reflected the ability of the All Blacks to change the tempo of the game and with 2 tries in succession they were out of sight. But that’s enough of the match report. The atmosphere in the pub was good spirited, applauding all points scoring by both sides.

We returned back to have breakfast and enjoy the final few hours before heading south for Franz Josef Glacier.

first stop on the west coast

The journey down the west coast to Punakaiki was once again a delightful and relatively easy trip. We followed the GPS instructions even though there were times when it started to get lost and guiding us across open fields. There were a few scary moments as we crossed narrow 'one lane' bridges and passes that had poor visability. But we followed the rules of the road and beckoned the odd lorry through when it needed guidance.
We arrived at our next port of call. The Rocks, Homestay.
Well this was another experience entirely and in a different league as far as paradise was concerned. The place appeared to be suspended over a small section of rain forest and the hosts Rolie and Eva made the welcome all the more special as we were introduced to the living space and the options of what activities were available and where to eat.
There were 2 other rooms which were also taken as the 'no vacancy' sign confirmed when talking with Rolie.
we rested a while then considered where to eat. We had been recommended to the local tavern where all the locals seemed to congregate as well as other travellers were also eating. We arrived there just in time and ordered food. I opted for the rib-eye steak whilst Caroline went for the pasta with tomato sauce.
It was served to us by Ian the owner of the place and as Caroline identified herself as having the 'veggie' option, he responded with the best line of the day, "you can see a Doctor about that".
I nearly choked on my mouthful of draught Tui.
the food went down a treat, although during the process we had witnessed the locals all turn to the TV (the volume was turned up and the music stopped) as an interview with the Chief Executive of the Pike River Mine brought home the proximity we were to the recent disaster and how it was effecting everyone.
I had a second pint, this time Monteith's Black Beer whilst Caroline then watched a change of mood on the TV... Gordon Ramsey's Nightmare kitchens!! imported US version.
we returned to the Rocks and had a quick walk on the beach at the end of Truman track.
Then back for a get together with the other people staying and discussed and compared our adventures around New Zealand so far.

South Island experience starts here

Its starting to turn into a different trip now that we've crossed over to the south island and start to observe a completely different landscape and meet different people.
We had eaten on the boat... well, fish and chips.. and therefore didn;t bother going out for another meal once we had settled into the accommodation. After all it was gone 8pm now, and we had a long day. This morning we woke to bright blue sky and sunshine just coming onto the balcony, so we enjoyed a breakfast 'al fresco' and read for nwhile before setting off. The Equestrian Motor Lodge had delivered and was interesting to have met the couple who were from Northampton who moved over about 8 years ago, we made tracks to see what the next stop over would have install for us.

Wellington to Picton by Ferry

Its was time to cross the great abyss between north and south island. Commonly known as the Cooks Straight. But we had a morning to waste in Wellington, so we packed up, checked out of the Capital Gateway Motel and park up for a couple of hours before catching the 2pm ferry across to Picton.
We decided to visit the Te Papa Museum in the centre of the city. We learnt a great deal more about the NZ culture in one of the exhibition areas. Hadn't realised that the maori language had only been formally recognised since 1989.
The Ferry awaited and we after stocking up with a few items of food, we drove to the waiting lanes to watch the ferry come into the terminal and off-load the south island cargo.
The sun was shining and the ferry left only a few minutes late. The crossing was smooth despite previous anxieties about the weather conditions. The crossing was a little over 3 hours but soon passed by. We docked into Picton and within 10 minutes we were driving out of Picton and heading for our overnight stop in Motekua.