Returning home

The few days in San Francisco were amazing and was just what we needed to enable our bodies to recover from the 4 weeks in NZ.
The hospitality shown by Caroline's cousins was without doubt the most terrific experience and one which I will not forget in a very long time.
Our final day meant that as many things as possible were seen before heading out to the airport and taking a long last look at the Pacific Ocean.
It might be some time before we manage to get over that part of the world again, but we'll certainly be keeping it mind.

The offer of an extra few inches of leg room on the flight did not pass us by, and we struck a deal with the checking in clerk. We boarded the aircraft, but not before the security had one final peek inside by backpack to find nothing more than a tangled mass of charging wires, some books and a few pens. A satisfied nod, gave me the all clear and found my seat and settled into the flight. Unfortunately unable to sleep for long as there was a small child who decided this was a good time to stay up also and cry, cry cry... and the parents took it in turn to walk him up and down the aisle to ensure nobody else was having quality sleep, whilst the child's feet clipped the occasional passenger, who's head was in direct line as they walked him to and fro in their arms.
Never mind, there were some good films which helped pass the 10hr 35min journey.
Where next..... it anybody's guess

application for 30 hr day in SFO

The last couple of days we were being given all sorts guidance on what to see in SFO. It was great to experience an art exhibition in the De Young Museum, the Japanese Tea Gardens, a fundraising crab feast, ride on the trolley car, walk around chinatown, walk around Muir Woods to see the Redwoods and having a variety of other experiences.
Where did these last 2 days go....
Reflecting on the photos from the entire trip, we've had something of an amazing trip which have ticked so many boxes. Some were unknown boxes which weren't planned, but we've added to them as the days have passed by.
I suppose the only remedy will be to look at more hours in the day or perhaps the more logical approach will be to have more days to pace our whole experience.

But for now, there's just time get our bags packed and consider our plans for getting to the airport and catch our overnight flight back home.
And as for the next journey... watch this space

Lets go to San Fransisco

Although checked out of our hotel in Auckland, we had til around 4pm until getting to the airport. So its was time for some more exploring.
We decided to take a harbour cruise around Auckland and also briefly visit one of the uninhabitated islands across the bay.

We duly paid up and set off for an hour and a half trip, (which included a free tea/coffee and muffin snack). An added bonus was once returned, we could take a free ride on the ferry to Devonport, which we did immediately on the 12.30pm crossing and walked the seaside resort style streets. The pace was different and encountered a completely relaxed approach to life once walking around.
Caroline was attracted to having a 15min biotone massage, before catching the return ferry, afterwhich, we sat and watched the world go by on a waterfront bench and the sun shone.
We found our way into Vulcan street to find a place called 'Raw Power' who's menue was full of vegetarian delights. The tongue twister 'falafel pitta pocket' took our fancy and sat watching more of the Auckland world go by from a 1st floor window, whilst sitting next to a table of men holding a very formal business meeting while drinking their fruit juice style smoothies!
We only had a 5 minute walk back to the hotel and collect our bags and then catch the 'airbus' to the airport.
The check at the airport went smoothly and we were on our way to San Fransisco, crossing the intenational dateline, we would experience the longest day so far, and have Wednesday 8th Dec all over again as we arrived at 10.30 in SFO.

last night in Auckland

I had exchanged ideas about meeting up in the evening with Jane and Bob in Auckland as part of our New Zealand finale. We spent Tuesday morning walking around some of the major sights in the city. We’d walked to the Victoria Park Market as it was one of the ‘must do’ recommendations provided. Unfortunately it was not living up to expectations as the main chimney landmark was under some reconstruction work and many of the allocated stall/shop areas were empty. We walked around a few shops then went off in search of the wealth of Auckland at the harbour. This did not disappoint in both respects of the grandeur affluence of the presenting boats moored up along the quayside but also the weather, with gradually turned into a blue sky experience.
We took a leisurely walk around the waterfront area, passing the maritime museum, bars, restaurants and other noticeable landmarks and artefacts.
After returning to the hotel for a short rest, we decided to take the lift to the top of the Auckland Sky Tower. A significant landmark which had turned into, like so many communication towers, a main tourist attraction where so much of the area could be observed from the highest vantage point.

The views, as expected, were magnificent and the vista of extinct volcanoes could be seen in every direction. We’d been informed that you could see somewhere in the region of 25 disguised volcanoes. In fact there was the notion that if you were going uphill or downhill anywhere in Auckland it was probably at some point of other, a volcano.
The plan was to be met at our hotel at 5 by Jane and then meet up on the waterfront with Bob. Like all our plans, everything worked as predicted and by 6pm we were all sitting in a sun-soaked bar on the waterfront enjoying some fine samples of New Zealand wine and beer. We found an entertaining Italian restaurant a little later with waiter who will be remembered for all his smart ‘one liners’ and helpful photography skills when thrown my camera to record the event.
A final wander around the waterfront and Britomart (train station) and we exchanged our farewells and thanks for Jane and Bob to have shared NZ with us.

Tomorrow was going to be a far different day least alone with the fact we were flying out of NZ, but also in that it would be the longest day, due to us crossing the international date line and having most of Wednesday the 8th all over again in San Fransisco, CA.

Time to Fly again

It was only an hours drive back into Queenstown Airport and park up the rental car for the last time. We calculated doing 4,242Km throughout both north and south island adventure.
We arrived just after 10.30am ready for the 12.20 domestic flight to Auckland. We checked in and found that surprisingly the cases were still a few kg below the limit.
We were sat waiting to go through the security check and looked around to see our hosts from a Tranquility Lodge, Kingston. They said they were passing and wanted to see us off.. Now thats the first time anything like this had happened and we were really touched by them remembering when we were flying and come to see us off.
So the flight was as good on time, we flew a circuit and headed north.
We landed after an hour and twenty minutes in Auckland and within half an hour travelling on the airbus into the centre of Auckland.
Now in Auckland, we've done a quick walk around the central area of Auckland and ready for a further days adventure tomorrow.

an afternoon in Glenorchy

after the morning's strenuous venture onto the mountainside known as Invincible Mine, we had a restful afternoon looking at the clouds drifting by the windows, glancing off the mountains opposite.
we thought we'd take another short venture into Glenorchy and see what was happening.
It seemed like everyone had cleared the streets as we walked down onto the wharf. Taking pictures, it was as though it was a place waiting to happen, but I was about to learn different.
A beer might make a difference, so we strolled into the Glenorchy Hotel... not what you'd think.. apparently the place was rockin last night, and the quiet state of the place reflected the good time had by all.
So the barman served up a Mac Black and white wine for Caroline, and watched the other staff putting up lights on the oversized real pine christmas tree in the corner.
Another local couple came in.... they were in for the sunday roast beef and yorkshire pudding. They chatted with us and was informed about some of the history of Glenorchy as the kiwi chatting was a farmer and lived and worked in Glenorchy all his life. His grandfather had mined locally for gold. He said that the township had been a thriving busy port when the steamer would transport everything to Glenorchy before the road was laid. There remains a large shed by the wharf where everything was distrubuted from as a testimony of days past. Everything including supplies and tourists, thousands of them came in here. So it seemed like Glenorchy had had its high moments and the drift of tourists who were looking for Lord of the Rings filming location further up the River Dart, was just about keeping the place alive.
The couple were called to eat their meal and I finished off my second pint.
We fly back to Auckland for a couple of days tomorrow.

time for walkabout!

We awoke to a morning that had mixed weather potential. The mountains opposite us were partially covered in cloud but as we were expecting, they should be burning off with the sun coming through. Patches of blue sky looked promising as we ate our breakfast which was delivered on a tray to our room. We had opened the door to the decking and been looking down the valley, which was attracting a little more cloud.
Some options for a walk were presented by the host, Vladka and made our decisions once we filled water bottles and packed our back packs.
we headed off to Invincible Mine as opposed to Paradise which was signposted to the left. We soon encountered a stone track which was more suited for 4x4 and crossed 1 ford with caution. We came to a second, having passed the Invincible Heli-pad, which looked a little deeper and the stream running through it was fast running. We made one attempt and felt like it was beyond the car's ability to cross it!
I reversed, not wanting to ground the car on its last day with us. Just as I cleared and considered parking up, a small 4 WD minivan came passed and went straight through and looked back at us and gave reassuring noises that it was OK. We decided not to, but they offered to give us a lift in the van if we waded across to join them.
This seemed a far better offer, so we took off our socks and shoes and joined them on the other side. We jumped in, Caroline in the front and I bundled into the back with 2 bikes!, and went round the next corner. Within 100m Caroline shouted, thats where we're heading... the invincible mines were signposted at the side of the road!
We jumped out and thanked the good samaritans and started our trek up the hill.
After around 40mins of vertical climbing we soaked in more views in all directions and headed back to the car.
We had to wade back across the ford and drove back along the 9km track and decided that lunch was a well considered option before deciding what to do this afternoon.

the way to Glenorchy

We were about to set off from Te Anau and travel the length of Lake Wakatipu from Kingston, where we popped in to re-visit Margaret and Peter for a midday break, and Glenorchy which was being billed as the star attraction of the entire tour of NZ. Not only because of its stunning views, but also that it was not on the main tourist track and were in for a couple of days virtual isolation on a mountainside retreat. Such blissful environments are rarely listed, but we zipped through Queenstown, getting our bearings on the airport in readiness for Monday's flight, as the sun glowed against a blue sky.
We stopped shortly after, with views of the Lake, which had been in our view all the way around Queenstown. We had noticed a massive yellow cloud from before entering Queenstown, and wondered what it might be. Caroline's worst nightmare was confirmed when a local New Zealander pulled into the car park we were stopped for lunch as we observed more clouds of yellow coming from a forest of trees above us.
"thats pollen.... from the pine trees... breath a few lung fulls in... it'll do you good" said the driver as he put his window down and I enquired as to what it was.
"worst I've seen in years" his wife sat beside him nodding in agreement.
He didn't stop as a mini tornado of dust whipped up between our 2 cars.
we didn't stop long, and ate our picnic lunch and drove north for another 35 minutes and pulled into Precipice Creek Station.
We introduced ourselves to the owner, Vladka (from the Czech Republic). I did my Czech greeting "Dobry Den" to which she responded accordingly, but reassured her that it was as far as my czech translation went.
She showed us where to park and we entered into a very modern designed unit which from the outside appeared to be a corrugated metal shed, (painted dark green). But inside was a very nicely decorated and well thought out lay-out with a kitchen area, living area, separate bedroom and a bathroom. From both the bedroom and the living area you could access the wooden deck area which looked across the valley floor to the snow capped mountain opposite.
we had come here to have our final chill before heading into urban Auckland and then San Fransisco on Wednesday. so this was going to be just great... we could already tell.

Milford Sound

We were booked for the 10.30 trip from Te Anau to Milford sound. A 2 hour coach journey and 2+ hour boat trip out into the Tasmin Sea. The coach pulled into Te Anau after we'd been picked up from our hotel by a smaller coach. Only 4 boarded the coach here and struggled to find seats as the coach had come in from Queensntown and was full of people.
The driver, John, gave us full commentary during the entire journey to Milford, stopping at strategic photo stops (as well as toilets) to keep the photographers amoungst us happy.
We arrived and walked straight through to the boat and boarded it. It wasn't long before we were having our picnic lunch and riding the waves, viewing the massive rocks as the boat weaved its way through, pointing features of interest. The sun was shining, but on deck the wind was strong and we felt the full force of the so called 'day breeze' that filtered through the islands and mountains. Wildlife in abundance, we saw penguins (sorry, 1 penguin!) many many seals basking on rocks and a pod of around 15 or so blue nose dolphins.
Once on the open seas, the captain opened 2 sails on the boat to assist our venture from the mouth of Milford Sound. After a 15 minute turn in the Tasmin sea, we turned and headed back to port. Again the coach was waiting for us to board and made a direct jounrey back to Te Anau hotel by about 6pm leaving the Queenstown passengers to journey on for another 2 hours.

furthest south

So there we were.... having breakfast considering the next part of the trip which would take us to Te Anau. On the shores of the Lake of the same name, Te Anau. It was only a 90 min journey and therefore made a relaxed departure from Kingston.
We arrived after stopping at Mossburn (capital of deer country) and got into Kingsgate Hotel on the shores of the Lake before the hotel room service had prepared our room. We were given some guide notes as to where and have a picnic and do some sight seeing before getting back to the hotel.
Earlier in the day I had booked places with the local company to see the Glo Worm caves, which involved a boat trip across the lake and walk deep into a cave and observe the illuminated phenomenon. So, we had a pizza, went to the cinema which showed an amazing 30min film of the fiordland and headed to thw wharf for the 8.15 trip to see the glo worms. The climax of the trip was sitting in a 12 seater boat in total silence and in total darkness being disorientated for around 15mins. This was to be the most underwhelming experience of the trip. The undrground rock formation and the rush of water through the caves were amazing, but were disppapointed at the few dozen glo worms that sprinkled the roof of the cave didn't live up to either of our expectations.
So... the day was finished as we rode back on the boat in the darkness and prepared ourselves for a better trip to Milford Sound the following day.

a quiet day in Kingston

The following day started with breakfast served up by the hosts and conversation continued to freely between the four of us around the table as we watched Queenstown come into view northwards, at the end of the lake, and the sun breaking out on the mountainside.
Nothing was planned for the day, which was just how we wanted it. The offer of using the kayak for Caroline was made, and taken up during the morning. So Caroline prepared, took to the water and made a gentle departure across the bay. The breeze caused the return easier, but she stayed out on the water for around 40 minutes. (see video clip)
In total contrast, my afternoon was being planned. A game of bowls was being scheduled against a neighbour, on the towns bowling green.
The Kiwi vs UK challenge took place just after 2pm and I took to the green with borrowed bowls. The green was unique… a good dose of clover peppered with small mushroom balls on the lane we chose. My opponent let me go first. It was the only time as we agreed on completing 10 ends. It was the only time I went first as the Kiwi took home advantage and won every end thereafter.
A handshake and promise of never speaking of this defeat was the best I could do. I will return to re-turf the green some day!
I returned and we spent the afternoon soaking up the relaxed atmosphere.
The pace of today was just perfect. Later in the afternoon we explored the town, looking at the vacant / for sale properties as well as paying respects to the Kingston Flyer, that was sitting, caged, dormant, waiting for investment. The coaches and other rolling stock were scattered around the main station, otherwise known as the ‘tavern’ where we’d eaten the previous night, and planned to eat again tonight.
Peter and Margaret were waiting when we returned to engage in more interesting local information, whilst having drinks and canopies.
They phoned the tavern to check that Sona was cooking again, and we made tracks to sit and enjoy the local delicacy ‘bluecod’.

Franz Josef to the Kingston Flyer

Woke up ready for the longest days drive of our whole trip. A little less than 400km and over 5 hours duration. A little more along the coast line of the West coast, then coming inland first running alonside Lake Wanaka then cutting across to Lake Hawea for some more stunning scenery along the Haast Pass.
A little further south we were in Wanaka town and then followed the route across the Crown Range Road where there was a steady climb to 1076m to look out towards Queenstown airport.

We descended into Queenstown and only had another half hour drive into Kingston where there were signs for 'the home of the Kingston Flyer'.
We found the accommodation, 'Tranquility Lodge' and were greeted by the owners Peter and Margaret. Upon entering the main living area, we could see why it was given the name. The views were stunning, looking out over the lake and realising that we had found another little piece of New Zealand paradise. Our room overlooking the same view, we sat and chatted with our hosts and exchanged stories and experiences.
The sun still shone on the mountain tops, and on the advice of Peter and Margaret, we decided that the local Tavern would be a good place to feed and water ourselves. We weren't disappointed as the hospitality and efficiency of Sonya who was serving, waiting and cooking was incredible.
How was the final week going to get better?

Clear for take off!

It was one of the highlights of the trip.... a helicopter ride over the Glaciers (Franz Josef and Fox).
We reported to the office and were told that we were the only 2 on thr trip, but that we could go to the sister company down the road where they had space for 2 more to make up a full trip.
We went a couple hundred metres down the road and paid our fee for the ride. Shortly afterwards, there was a phone call from the Fox office(we were in the Franz office) to say that the others on our booked flight had gone to the wrong office. So we had an additional 10 minute ride as we went across by helicopter to Fox before heading upwards to the top of the Glaciers. It was an amazing sight as the pilot picked his way around the rocky crags and found a spot to land and allow us 5 minutes walk-about on the mountain peak overlooking Fox Glacier.
An experience that only happens very occassionally for us both, but one which will remain for a while to come without doubt.
We returned via Fox again, then the short 5 minute trip across to Franz.
We went back to our room and had a small lunch before going out for a walk up a trail which looked out on some jaw-dropping landscapes in all directions.

up close with Franz Josef

We arrived in Franz Josef after a relatively easy drive down the west coast. We were advised to stop off at the Bushman Centre for lunch. We found easily enough, as there was a massive sandfly hanging off the front of the building, but only stopped for a coffee. It was one of the crazy looking places both from the outside and the inside. A mixture of shop for clothes and souvenirs, a cafe and for good measure, a museum. The menu was the most entertaining as I had been told about the 'roadkill, possum burgers' not the mention the bambi burgers, bunny burgers and numerous other roadkill options. The chairs were all covered in possum pelts for authentic atmosphere.
We drove off as a group of bikers had arrived and occupied the museum to learn about the local natureal environment.
We drove into Franz Josef Glacier and found our accommodation. The room was onc again well equipped with cooking facilities and fridge, so a couple of beers fitted in the door nicely. We decided that we had time to drive to the Glacier and walk up to the face of it.
Once parked it took us just under an hour to walk to the face. Other explorer types were walking up the steep hill with guides to walk on the ice, but we were doing the helicopter ride the following day, so didn't have a desperate need to challenge oursleves right then.
We went back to the motor lodge and found something to eat and watched TV, after walking round the streets for half an hour.
It was a relatively small place occupied by mainly young backpacker types, walking in and out of the few bars that occupied the main street.
It was time to close down and prepare oursleves for the flight the following day.

full days activities in Punikaiki!

We woke to look out on a grey, low cloud looking day, but given assurances that the cloud would soon burn off by around 10 or maybe 11.
It was a leisurely start as we were served breakfast by the host Roli. The other guests had packed and departed and left us to organise our day. We decided to walk along a nearby beach, then time our visit to the pancake rocks and ‘blow holes’ at around 3.30pm where at high tide, the crashing waves would be projected skyward through the gaps (or holes) created by erosion. Between the beach walk and getting to the pancake rocks we walked for about an hour along a made up track that ran alongside the nearby river.
Unfortunately we did not see the blow holes perform as the swell was not adequately rough.
We went back to the accommodation for a brief rest, then went out to walk along the Truman Trail, which led to the Beach just below the accommodation. The eroded rock formations were captivating and we stood in wonder to think how any of them remained in place.
We sat with the host family and planned the following day, as although we were checking out, I had been invited to watch the All Blacks playing against Wales at the local pub at 6am in the morning.

The dawn of the following day came at around 5.30am and I was up ready to get to the pub, with Roli and Eva plus one other French girl who had, with her partner, tempted Caroline and I down to the beach to see if we could see Penguins coming onto the beach in the darkness. We didn’t see any though.

The pub was open and coffee was on offer on the bar as we took our seats, as the build up interviews were being shown on the big screen. Because of the Pike River disaster, there was a minutes silence which was respectfully observed in the pub. I really felt at the centre with people that knew people who had experienced the effect of the disaster.

The match started and a growing number of locals (some of whom were south Wales exports) started coming into the pub and getting involved as the game unfolded.

The game was a hard fought challenge and for 60 minutes or so, the Welsh gave their best and the lead was always possible. The final score reflected the ability of the All Blacks to change the tempo of the game and with 2 tries in succession they were out of sight. But that’s enough of the match report. The atmosphere in the pub was good spirited, applauding all points scoring by both sides.

We returned back to have breakfast and enjoy the final few hours before heading south for Franz Josef Glacier.

first stop on the west coast

The journey down the west coast to Punakaiki was once again a delightful and relatively easy trip. We followed the GPS instructions even though there were times when it started to get lost and guiding us across open fields. There were a few scary moments as we crossed narrow 'one lane' bridges and passes that had poor visability. But we followed the rules of the road and beckoned the odd lorry through when it needed guidance.
We arrived at our next port of call. The Rocks, Homestay.
Well this was another experience entirely and in a different league as far as paradise was concerned. The place appeared to be suspended over a small section of rain forest and the hosts Rolie and Eva made the welcome all the more special as we were introduced to the living space and the options of what activities were available and where to eat.
There were 2 other rooms which were also taken as the 'no vacancy' sign confirmed when talking with Rolie.
we rested a while then considered where to eat. We had been recommended to the local tavern where all the locals seemed to congregate as well as other travellers were also eating. We arrived there just in time and ordered food. I opted for the rib-eye steak whilst Caroline went for the pasta with tomato sauce.
It was served to us by Ian the owner of the place and as Caroline identified herself as having the 'veggie' option, he responded with the best line of the day, "you can see a Doctor about that".
I nearly choked on my mouthful of draught Tui.
the food went down a treat, although during the process we had witnessed the locals all turn to the TV (the volume was turned up and the music stopped) as an interview with the Chief Executive of the Pike River Mine brought home the proximity we were to the recent disaster and how it was effecting everyone.
I had a second pint, this time Monteith's Black Beer whilst Caroline then watched a change of mood on the TV... Gordon Ramsey's Nightmare kitchens!! imported US version.
we returned to the Rocks and had a quick walk on the beach at the end of Truman track.
Then back for a get together with the other people staying and discussed and compared our adventures around New Zealand so far.

South Island experience starts here

Its starting to turn into a different trip now that we've crossed over to the south island and start to observe a completely different landscape and meet different people.
We had eaten on the boat... well, fish and chips.. and therefore didn;t bother going out for another meal once we had settled into the accommodation. After all it was gone 8pm now, and we had a long day. This morning we woke to bright blue sky and sunshine just coming onto the balcony, so we enjoyed a breakfast 'al fresco' and read for nwhile before setting off. The Equestrian Motor Lodge had delivered and was interesting to have met the couple who were from Northampton who moved over about 8 years ago, we made tracks to see what the next stop over would have install for us.

Wellington to Picton by Ferry

Its was time to cross the great abyss between north and south island. Commonly known as the Cooks Straight. But we had a morning to waste in Wellington, so we packed up, checked out of the Capital Gateway Motel and park up for a couple of hours before catching the 2pm ferry across to Picton.
We decided to visit the Te Papa Museum in the centre of the city. We learnt a great deal more about the NZ culture in one of the exhibition areas. Hadn't realised that the maori language had only been formally recognised since 1989.
The Ferry awaited and we after stocking up with a few items of food, we drove to the waiting lanes to watch the ferry come into the terminal and off-load the south island cargo.
The sun was shining and the ferry left only a few minutes late. The crossing was smooth despite previous anxieties about the weather conditions. The crossing was a little over 3 hours but soon passed by. We docked into Picton and within 10 minutes we were driving out of Picton and heading for our overnight stop in Motekua.

getting into Wellington

It was the final full day to spend on the north island, and it was time to set the Sat Nav to find Wellington. It was once again a trip that would take us through changing terrain and towns. Masterton, Carterton and Greytown were all well organised and fresh looking places, where attention had been paid to a community looking spirit.
We were heading on South highway 2 and making good headway, so we had time for a stop off for a picnic lunch. It was a commemorative garden area in tribute to world war 2 war heroes.
On the road again, we noticed the growing number of lanes as we arrived into Hutt city. Both Upper and Lower Hutt came into view on our left and we travelled across to find our way into the Capital Gateway Motel. A sternly looking receptionist went through the minimal formalities and we went to our allocated room 106 and unloaded the car.
We considered options after a short rest and decided to drive into the centre of Wellington and check out the attractions and whether there was anywhere to eat.
Parked up, we headed to the waterfront area and then across several streets into Cuba street, the food street. There was a veggie/vegan place mainly based on Malaysian style, so we tracked around for a half hour then went in and ate. It was hot, but it was well tasty and good.

Napier Delivers in art deco style

It was a long drive from Stratford. 300km and a couple of stops meant we arrived just after 3.30pm to be directed to room 5 of 12 in a courtyard of car spaces (1 for each room). Each room named, ours being the CHB Press Suite (CHB = Central Hawkes Bay).
Again well furnished but slightly falling short of the previous accommodation but that was a tough act to follow.
We had plans for visiting Napier (about an hours drive) to see the capital of Art Deco for New Zealand, so after sorting ourselves out with food, we settled down to watch TV… (actually seeing New Zealand being well and truly beaten in the third day of the third test cricket).
We made our own breakfast and loaded the car and set off. The sun wqas shining with no sign of clouds, so it was time for shorts again.
We arrived in a central car park and ventured around the city and were absorbed with building after building that demonstrated the real ‘art deco’ themed design that has been so recognisable icons in the last century.
The camera was snapping skywards as the skyline attracted my attention every few steps. The sky-blue backdrop was ideal for the different colour schemes that paraded before me.
Whilst walking around part of the shopping precinct we heard, then observed, the results of an elderly ladies attempt to ram-raid a fashionable dress shop. We assumed she engaged reverse in her automatic instead of drive, and the result of her mistake had caused and one of the pillars was demolished.
Fire engines arrived to add drama to the event. We didn’t stop to observe, but turned a few corners and ended up talking to a resident of Palmeston North about life in New Zealand. His father was in Napier in the early 30’s repairing the buildings around us. His wife joined our conversation briefly and headed off to the next fashionable dress shop! and we bid our farewells.

We were due back to the car park (2 hours limit) and re-parked the car on the sea-front and had a picnic. Then we drove off to Hastings, about 12km inland, for more exposure to art deco buildings.

We drove back to our motor lodge and did the laundry, shopped and after a short rest had tea. Other residents at the motor-lodge started to congregate outside our door. There was a BBQ which was being fired up by the owner and there were some fisherman arriving, as well as a couple of others who were sat at the table, who after the meat had been cooked devouring their meal in the rain. I went outside to observe and admire their determination to eat in the rain (under a large parasol).
One guy turned out to have just returned from living near Sevenoaks in Kent for the last 10 years, working in the meat trade, alongside his colleague Jean Michael (from France) who were wheeling and dealing as we spoke. There was a container full of meat in north france waiting for transportation. But they took time out to share their experiences on NZ culture and history, sport and other related topical issues as well as their bread and special sheep cheese! Meanwhile I was being fed with some venison burgers that the owner had been hunting for. We stood and chatted as the rain ceased for around an hour. The India cricket team had beaten New Zealand in the meantime, but we didn’t make an issue of this. It was time to clear up and head back to our respective rooms.

Napier Delivers in art deco style

It was a long drive from Stratford. 300km and a couple of stops meant we arrived just after 3.30pm to be directed to room 5 of 12 in a courtyard of car spaces (1 for each room). Each room named, ours being the CHB Press Suite (CHB = Central Hawkes Bay).
Again well furnished but slightly falling short of the previous accommodation but that was a tough act to follow.
We had plans for visiting Napier (about an hours drive) to see the capital of Art Deco for New Zealand, so after sorting ourselves out with food, we settled down to watch TV… (actually seeing New Zealand being well and truly beaten in the third day of the third test cricket).
We made our own breakfast and loaded the car and set off. The sun wqas shining with no sign of clouds, so it was time for shorts again.
We arrived in a central car park and ventured around the city and were absorbed with building after building that demonstrated the real ‘art deco’ themed design that has been so recognisable icons in the last century.
The camera was snapping skywards as the skyline attracted my attention every few steps. The sky-blue backdrop was ideal for the different colour schemes that paraded before me.
Whilst walking around part of the shopping precinct we heard, then observed, the results of an elderly ladies attempt to ram-raid a fashionable dress shop. We assumed she engaged reverse in her automatic instead of drive, and the result of her mistake had caused and one of the pillars was demolished.
Fire engines arrived to add drama to the event. We didn’t stop to observe, but turned a few corners and ended up talking to a resident of Palmeston North about life in New Zealand. His father was in Napier in the early 30’s repairing the buildings around us. His wife joined our conversation briefly and headed off to the next fashionable dress shop! and we bid our farewells.

We were due back to the car park (2 hours limit) and re-parked the car on the sea-front and had a picnic. Then we drove off to Hastings, about 12km inland, for more exposure to art deco buildings.

We drove back to our motor lodge and did the laundry, shopped and after a short rest had tea. Other residents at the motor-lodge started to congregate outside our door. There was a BBQ which was being fired up by the owner and there were some fisherman arriving, as well as a couple of others who were sat at the table, who after the meat had been cooked devouring their meal in the rain. I went outside to observe and admire their determination to eat in the rain (under a large parasol).
One guy turned out to have just returned from living near Sevenoaks in Kent for the last 10 years, working in the meat trade, alongside his colleague Jean Michael (from France) who were wheeling and dealing as we spoke. There was a container full of meat in north france waiting for transportation. But they took time out to share their experiences on NZ culture and history, sport and other related topical issues as well as their bread and special sheep cheese! Meanwhile I was being fed with some venison burgers that the owner had been hunting for. We stood and chatted as the rain ceased for around an hour. The India cricket team had beaten New Zealand in the meantime, but we didn’t make an issue of this. It was time to clear up and head back to our respective rooms.

moved on to Waipukurau

we set off this morning for a 300km drive from Stratford to Waipukurau and saw our first flock of hillside wind turbines. Putting good use of the recent strong winds which was good to see. Stopped off at a cafe (Sassy cafe) which doubled up as a post office... 'a novel and unique combination' I commented to the girl behind the counter as she calculated what stamps we needed to send a postcard home.
'gets a bit annoying at times though' she responded.
Didn't seem like the most perfect of combinations then.
We're now sitting in a our new digs for 2 nights and driving into Napier tomorrow.

touring the 'Surf Highway'

As mentioned earlier, we woke to see only some brief glimpses at the nearby mountain from our balcony. Several options were considered, but thought we would head across eastwards and navigate ourselves around the mountain. The road running along the coast is known as the Surf Highway, and several roads led from it towards the coast, where the sea was looking particularly rough.
We went through several showers, but stopped around 12.30 and had a picnic. Chatted to a couple walking their dog. picked up that their accents weren't local NZers, and discovered that they had moved over here 6 years ago from Yorkshire, originaly from Leeds.
We made our way back through New Plymouth and then towards Stratford to return to our room.
Then we were out again to see the clock in the centre of stratford which, on the chimes of 3pm performed a short piece from Romeo & Juliet. It appears that this place was named after the Bard and the glockenspeil chimes are shortly followed by life-size models appearing at various windows of the clock tower....
It was time for more mountain spotting and found a nearby road that led to the mountain plateau 6km away and 3 pops in our ears high! (its the official way we measure altitude). we arrived to find one other vehicle in a large car park but the top of the mountain came into view. The first time we'd seen it all day, as it had remained wrapped in clouds all the time during our drive.
we walked to a look-out platform, then back to the car as we saw the summit disappear again.
At least we can say we saw the summit!!

Mountain spotting

woke this morning to watch the rugby match, NZ vs Ireland being shown live here at 6.30am.
opened up the roller blinds in order to check if the mountain would come into view, and eventually caught a glimpse of the summit. at 2518 metre high with a secondary peak on its south side, fathoms peak.
Managed to get a few shots of the peak, so will upload it for those mountain fans. Apparently it was used as the backdrop to the film 'The Last Samurai'... just in case you thought it was all Lord of the Rings out here!!
will be venturing out shortly and finding our way closer to the mountain.

more miles on the clock

Its been an interesting couple of days.
We left Rotorura and headed for a relatively short journey to Turangi via Taupo, where the lake was looking magnificent as predicted.
We were well ahead of schedule and took a turning off the route where signs indicated some more geothermal springs and of all things, a 'devonshire cream tea'. We sat in the car park outside deciding whether or not to go in. We did, and didn't regret it. We discovered a middle aged guy stood behind the counter and on introduction told us that he was just passing 21 years ago and bought it and hadn't been able to get out. He humoured us with several class jokes (you had to be there) and then pointed us in the direction of the back door for a 30 minute walk around several spectacular steaming holes named as the porridge pool and the chocolate pot, which were not so active. We got back to the cafe and chatted to a young lad who served us drinks and had time for some insightful experiences of living in NZ.
after over an hour we headed back to the main road with recommendations to visit the Huka Falls and some thermal pools a little further where you could bathe in hot pools by the side of the river that ran out of Lake Taupo.
Caroline dipped in the pools of steamy water and then we headed to Turangi and checked in for our overnight stop before getting up this morning and heading fro Stratford.
This morning was wet and we found good use for the wiper blades for most of the journey. We arrived at around 3.00pm and checked into one of the most amazing room we've had for both this trip and the previous Canada trip. (see pics!)
A room with kitchen/cooking facilities and all the usual mod cons, but I walked out onto the balcony we discovered a hot tub bubbling away at a steady 37.5 deg!!
the balcony looked south towards a cloud of misty grey rain, behind which is Mount Egmont... will we see it.. watch this space.
In the meantime, we've driven into New Plymouth this evening on the recommendation of the owner of the motel here, to visit the 'loving hut' a veggie/vegan cafe, that was just what Caroline needed. The chap helping out there apparently did some of the tiling in our room... Fred was his name and he was a real character and another on the list of New Zealanders that all have a story to tell.

Rainbow Springs

Rotorura offered a great day out to see the native animals of NZ. The main attraction was the Kiwis, and for a few dollars extra, we were shown eggs being incubated and then where they hatched. There were some rather frisky ones that wre a few weeks old, cared for. We then returned after 8.30pm and saw a few others as they were waking up. During the day, the woodland walk offered an insight into the varied fauna not to mention the flora.
We also went around a nearby park in the centre of Rotorura and saw steam rising from hols in the rocks. A bizarre sight.
After we had our second visit to see the Kiwis, we stumbled on a street market selling all manner of foods. Found a guy selling cornish pasties.... the real thing. He had moved over here 5 years ago and was making a go of it. "hard work and its expensive" he told me, but well worth it.
food for thought.

the kettle's boiling

Drive to Rotorura

This was another of those drives that almost required the scenery overload trip switch to be re-set. After the Coromandel Pensinsular, we had around a 4 hour drive south and see some more of the changing landscape. Not only the scenes however, but the odour also made a dramatic change also as we drove into Rotorura and parked up outside the hotel. The heat had been increasing as we drove south again, but hadn't bargained for picking a hotel just on the lakeside with the most alien looking landscape we coulod have imagined. Then, just as we opened the door of the car, the smell of rotten eggs (commonly known as sulpur) hit our throats.
My memory hit back to school days when somebody would set off a stink bomb, and we would have to evacuate the assemembly room at the start of the day. I so wanted to complain at reception, but realised that nobody commented on the strong stench. nobody apologised about the smell. Nobody spoke about it, and although I was expecting it, I must admit after a day of it, the aroma was becoming less noticeable.

Anyway, we set off for our first explore around the steaming pools next to the lake. WOW!!! seen lots of documentaries about these natural geothermal phenomenon, but to see it in front of your eyes was amazing.
during our walking tour, we discovered a Thai Restuarant and decided to go back there for a meal that evening.
we then considered plans for the following day.

does exactly what it says on the sign

Day at Hot Water Beach
One of the main attractions to this coast line for us was the aptly named ‘hot water beach’. One of those geothermal phenomenon that you see on documentary programmes back home, but never witnessed in the flesh.

Its only around 7Km from where we are staying, so it was a natural expectation to visit. Even the reception where we are staying has the low tide times, as it was more likely that we could experience the full effect if we visited at low tide. We were up and ready to go by around 9.30am as the tide was turning. We arrived and parked the car and walked across the sand and saw in the distance the gathering crowds (may about 30 or so) where some had dug themselves holes to sit in and others who were standing just as the tide lapped their feet.

We were to find out that there was a narrow area where there was virtually boiling water was bubbling up through the sand, and if you wriggled your feet a few inches below the surface on the shoreline, you could feel the intense heat of the water below. Quickly extracting your feet meant that you had survived, but tempted to keep trying it again and again.
Caroline wanted to submerge herself in one of the pools, and experience the full hot tub effect. I sat back on the rocks and shaded myself from the intense heat that was increasing as midday grew nearer.

We soaked up the rays a while longer and then returned to the car and drove back to our accommodation and had some lunch. Sitting out on the veranda consuming some recently purchased bread, humous and veg meant we were ready for the afternoon trek.
The afternoon challenge was to walk to Cathedral Cove. Again hardly 3Km away although once parked up, the half hour walk was, for some steeper parts, a bit of a challenge. An amazing collection of rock formations awaited us as well as the large cavernous hole which for those who were brave to walk into in (despite the warning signs not to) experienced the cathedral like experience no doubt.

The sun remained hot as we returned back up the hill to the car. All boxes ticked for today.